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Old July 12th, 2007, 02:40 AM   #1
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 55
Bleeder Valve O-Ring Replacement Write-Up w/ Pictures

After have 2 new coolant tanks installed by an incompetent shop I finally emailed Porsche_Joe over on PPBB about the write up he did a while back since I was confused. He was super nice and gave me some useful tips. So I did the procedure with his new information and took some pictures so everyone can share in how to solve the quite common coolant condensation on the inside of the trunk lid problem. After around $3 in parts and with tons of help for everyone over at PPBB and Renntech I managed to solve a problem that CT Automotive could not solve after many trips and 2 coolant tanks. ENJOY!


1 999-707-370-40 Rubber o-ring
1 999-707-371-40 Rubber o-ring

Ratchet 1/4" Sears No. 43187
7mm socket 1/4" Sears No. 43503
3" extension 1/4" Sears No. 43539
Regular blade screwdriver

1. With the engine cold, remove the oil and coolant caps. IMPORTANT: The engine MUST BE COLD to prevent the possibility of scalding when removing the coolant cap.

2. Remove the plastic cover to access the bleeder valve. You can carefully pry up the cover using a regular screwdriver. You should see condensation on the underside of the cover and/or dried coolant around the bleeder valve. The bleeder valve is not the problem unless you have one or both of these symptoms.

3. Put the oil and coolant caps back in place. This is IMPORTANT because it prevents you from dropping a bolt or o-ring into one of the openings. That would be a bad thing!

4. Lift the metal ring of the bleeder valve from the horizontal position (closed) to the vertical position (opened).

5. Remove the 8 bolts that secure the bleeder valve to the bleeder valve housing and coolant tank. Lift the bleeder valve from the housing.

6. Remove the bleeder valve housing by pulling straight up. This is a very tight fit. I had to use a regular screwdriver to carefully pry up the housing before I could remove it. Once you “break it loose” it lifts out easily.

7. With the housing removed you will see the two o-rings on the top of the coolant tank. I sprayed some silicone lubricant on the new rings before installing them (yea, yea, yea, I know, silicone lubricant accelerates the deterioration of rubber but that’s what I had available at the time). The lubricant will help keep the rubber o-rings from sticking during assembly. Instead of silicone lubricant you could coat the new o-rings with a thin coat of liquid soap or even use something like Vinlyex. Remove the old o-rings and install the new ones.
Small O-Ring:

Large O-Ring (old one from “brand new tank” on left, real new OEM Porsche right)

Both O-rings on the bleeder valve top

8. Install the housing making sure the bolt holes line up properly.

9. With the bleeder valve still in the open position, install it on the housing.

10. Install the eight bolts (Hint: when starting a screw or bolt, use your fingers to turn it counterclockwise while gently pressing on it until you feel it “pop” into place then turn it clockwise to tighten it. If you do this each time you will never miss thread a screw or bolt again.) Be careful not to over tighten the bolts. I could not find torque specifications in the shop manual. If your problem continues then you may have to come back later and apply a little more torque.

Be very careful here or this could happen to you and you will need a whole new tank if you break the bolts.

11. Close the bleeder valve (move the ring from the vertical position to the horizontal position.)

12. Remove the oil and coolant caps.

13. Install the plastic cover.

14. Install the oil and coolant caps being careful not to miss thread the coolant cap.

15. Go for a nice long test drive.

Random Pictures of Parts

Difference in ring size

Top cap

Cap + valve base

Dirty parts

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