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Old December 17th, 2012, 08:55 AM   #1
ftyles
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2013 Boxster

I'm looking to purchase a new 2013 base Boxster. I want to place a factory order - anyone have an idea on how much negotiating room there is on price with the dealer (in the midwest)? Any recommended strategies on getting a "deal"...
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Old December 17th, 2012, 10:39 AM   #2
Docdanracy
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If you are a Costco member, I would try to see what kind of price you can get thru their program...
I bought a new 2012 car in May of this year for $300 under dealer invoice...
And it was a quite popular car.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 03:45 PM   #3
Tomy996
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I did that same thing with my 2013 Boxster S before any were on dealer lots. I can tell you the demand for these is pretty strong and that varies location to location as well. I have no idea what the percentage of MSRP is to invoice on one of these but I would say you would be doing well to get a few thou off the MSRP. Get it all in writing before you place the order though! You would have to define "midwest" but I would think there are good volume dealers all over.
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Old December 18th, 2012, 08:55 PM   #4
1analguy
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An individual dealer's willingness to deal is his/her own affair, but if you want to know where they're bargaining from...

Go here for a 2013 Boxster:

http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/2013/...adster/Pricing

Other similar sources (in descending order of usefulness) are Edmunds, and Kelley Blue Book. Pick one or try them all. Then, just follow the directions and option up your car. It'll tell you the invoice and retail values. At least you'll know where you stand, and where the dealer is working from. When you start actually visiting dealerships, just let each of them know that you're ready to order if they can make you comfortable on price, and if not, well...you walked in with lots of money, and you're perfectly willing to walk back out the same way. If you convince them of this, your chances of doing well will be vastly improved. Also, they are often a bit "hungrier" near the end of the month, and especially near the end of the year. Good hunting, and let us know how you make out...
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Last edited by 1analguy; December 23rd, 2012 at 09:58 AM.
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 04:29 PM   #5
BoxsterBob - San Carlos
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This was some advice provided by LorenS in San Diego a former car salesman. Much is common sense, and somewhat dated, but I've kept this because there are some valuable tips, I'm not sure how many apply to ordering vs. buying off the lot.

Always remember the following:
1. Never discuss the value of a trade in until the purchase price of the new (or new to you) vehicle is agreed upon.
2. When leasing or financing, only concentrate on the final price of the car. Then do the math for monthly payments. If you concentrate on your monthly payment, just stop and hand them your wallett. You blew it.
3. Read everything. No matter how long it takes. Take the paperwork home it you need to.
4. Do not look excited about your purchase. If you do, your leverage is gone.
5. Be prepared to walk if the deal is not the one you want. Theres always another car out there for you.
6. Always be in control, because you are. If you are not, I could sell you a refrigerator in December.
7. Be educated. Know all the figures. Knowledge is power. In what other sales industry could you pay 20% less than your neighbor for the same item. (besides airline tickets)

The holdback is not a finance charge. That is what salesmen will tell you to convince you that they cannot consider it profit. Holdback is incentive paid from the factory to the dealer for every sale. It is sales a commission, pure and simple. The amount of holdback does not change based on the amount of time the car has been on the lot. That is a salesman's sad sack story. I've told it to plenty of customers 10 years ago.

Porsche presently has a 3% holdback. It was 2% up until 2001, but then sales slowed. That means that on a vehicle with a window tag (also called the Maroney) of $88,000 car (Carrera), there is a $2,640 holdback. Many sales managers often tell the sales staff that there is no holdback, or that it is only 1%. The sales managers pocket the difference. On every vehicle that I have ever purchased, I go into the negotiation knowing the exact amount of holdback, and often require that half of it be applied to the price of the car. The remainder is fair profit to the dealer. After all, the dealer should make a fair proffit, but he should not finance his new swimming pool from your purchase.

Daeler rebate data is hard to come by. See the link below for the best source I've found. I have no afiliation. I used to sell Chevrolets. I now have to search for rebate data like everyone else. Did you know that there was a $2K rebate on Boxsters from 7-1-03 thru 10-1-03. Most people did not. There are no current Porsche rebates, but probably later in the year if sales do not pick up. All Porsche sales were down 31% in 2003.

To determine what is a good deal (ignore trade ins, thats another problem) you have to know what the exact Dealer Invoice cost is. What the dealer paid the factory. Porsche is pretty honest about this, but it may vary from dealer to dealer. Its hard to give you an exact answer without knowing every single option and engine size of the vehicle, but I'll try.

This is the best site for actual dealer invoice costs. Start with the vehicle info button. Find your vehicle and then click on Pricing and Options for a very detailed list. The totals are automatically shown at the bottom.
http://www.carinvoices.com/

This a great site (they do sell data, I have no affiliation) for getting/purchasing data, and learning how to negotiate. I thought I knew it all, but I learned more here. I highly recommend spending about $35 or so to save thousands. Also, get their negotiatinng book. Way too much good data to type it all here. And there is a new concept called "fax attack" that i used once and works very well.
http://www.fightingchance.com/

I believe that 2% to 3% above dealer invoice is a fair price for any car. Remember they get another 3% if you let them keep all of the holdback. If you try to get some of the holdback money, some dealers will ask you to leave, but some (especially at the 11th hur on the last day of the month) will give you half.

As far as my Boxster, 2003 model year, purchased on the last day of the month. I had looked at dealer lots in the early morning or late evening, after closing. I took a digital picture of the window sticker so I could have all the data. Then I loked up all the invoice itemized costs. See below link. I anonymously called the dealer and got the name of the newest salesman (hi, I was in there last week talking to one of your new salesmen, but I forgot his name...). A newbie needs to try harder, and end of the month final sales determine how much new inventory they will be shipped. I went there and found him. Then I shocked him. I said you have 30 minutes to sell me a car. My Boxster had a window sticker of about $49,000. The dealer invoice was approximately $41,000. That equals a 20% markup for the dealer. I went in 1 hr. before they closed, found the newbie, told him I'm ready to buy now, put a blank check (already made out to the dealership, but not signed) on the table and told him everything I know, including that I know of the 3% holdback. I offered $41,600. He flinched. They sent out the manager, he said I was wrong about the invoice and holdback. I told him I was not and that I was going to buy a Porsche from some dealer this week. Did he want it to be him? I showed him my invoice printouts, nicely told him I know for a fact that the holdback is 3% (he was pocketting 1.5%). He asked me not to tell the salesperson. He countered with $43,000. I said I can go no higher than $42,000 and when he said no, I started for the door. Then he gave in. All was nice and civil. I purchased my car for $42,000 before taxes and title. That is 18% below sticker. That is 2.5% above invoice. The dealing was done in 15 minutes. I understand that your car is worth much more, but the process is the same. You should be able to get your car for 2% - 3% above dealer invoice. Everyone should.

Porsche seems to have about a 20% markup. So an $88K car probably has an invoice of around $73,300, and a rebate of around $2640. Give or take. I would offer about $76,000. Thats a 2.5% profit. And dont forget, tey still get the holdback, so they are getting about $5,340 total profit. Most dealers will jump on that at the end of the month. A little more if its a special order. But you really need to get the exact invoice numbers. A reputable dealer will show you the factory shipping invoice to confirm your numbers. If it does not have a dock stamp on it, its a fake. Don't ask how I know. Also remember, you have to be able to walk away if its not the deal you want. Nine out of ten times, the sales manager will come running after you and make a better offer. Good luck.

Loren
2003 SGM/GG/BLK
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Old January 17th, 2013, 06:18 PM   #6
beverlymcn
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Just ordered

I just ordered a 2013 Boxster this past week - 1/14/13. I'd been told that the dealer wouldn't come down at all, but he did. It wasn't a huge amount, but better than I thought. As soon as we negotiated and I signed, I got an e-mail from another dealer, with an offer of $1400 less than my price. I showed it to the dealer and the price came down more. I'm not a strong negotiator when I really want something, but again, I was pleased with what I got.
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Old September 29th, 2020, 10:06 AM   #7
lizbee
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Glad I found this site! thanks for this! -wink
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Old November 13th, 2020, 07:12 AM   #8
cherrykey
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thanks for the share!! but may i ask how much is a tummy tuck that you know of?
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Old November 13th, 2020, 07:13 AM   #9
cherrykey
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im more interested on the tummy tuck cost
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