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Old August 17th, 2010, 04:30 PM   #11
Grantsfo
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Boxsters are really moody when it comes to certain alignment settings and AX. I have found I have to change setup on my car pretty signficantly just depending on venue I plan to run. Running slower courses on cool cement I go for more tow out both front and rear. Then its a constant playing abround with dampers and bars. Faster venues on asphalt require me to go closer to 0 toe. I know people get hung up on camber but in my opinion Boxster is all about how much toe you have. As long as you have over -1 camber with DOT tires the toe element is going to be much bigger impact to how car rotates.

Amazing thing is even at same venue I went from disconnecting my rear bar and setting front dampers at full stiff to next weekend reconnecting rear bar and going full soft in front. It just all depends on features of the course.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 05:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Docdanracy View Post
Back in the early 2000s there were two ROW M030 supsension set ups.
One was for the normal Boxster and one was for the S.
The S had slightly higher rate springs and stiffer (larger) hollow sway bars front and rear.
Maybe they no longer sell both complete sets...but if I were trying to get a ROW setup, I would be looking for the S spec ROW M030.
It will give you better spring and sway bar sizes for AX and DE events.
Even with the best of the M030 negative camber is tough to come by up front.
On my '99 I had H&R sport lowering springs mounted on stock struts. Then I mounted a front and rear set of ROW S M030 sway bars. The combination worked very well. I was only able to get about -1.25* upfront. And the H&R springs lower the car more than the ROW M030 springs.
My car was good enough for 1st place in AX series for a couple of seasons along with being very capable on the track...
When I ordered my ROW suspension Sonnen did a search and there were three sets available in the US, two in their warehouse and one at Suncoast, and all three sets were ROW M030 Sport. I don't believe the sway bars were hollow but definitley larger in diameter. The springs lowered my car about an inch all the way around and the whole unit made my car feel like a new one as well as improved my AX times considerably. I looked at H&R springs but after asking around about them decided they were too stiff for what I wanted which is a car that has a good ride, handles well with less body roll, improved my AX times and handles well on the track. DE is next month so I will have a better handle on that but so far the ROW M030 sport suspension has accomplished everything I wanted it to do and besides the LN Engineering ceramic IMS has been the best single investment I've made in my car.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 06:06 PM   #13
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stock 996 and 986 sway bars (fronts are the same part number) and M030 Bars are all hollow IIRC. The diameter of the bar changes and so does the wall thickness of the metal to make the bar giving the increased roll stiffness.
H&R sway bars are solid.
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Old August 17th, 2010, 06:32 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Docdanracy View Post
stock 996 and 986 sway bars (fronts are the same part number) and M030 Bars are all hollow IIRC. The diameter of the bar changes and so does the wall thickness of the metal to make the bar giving the increased roll stiffness.
H&R sway bars are solid.
Good to know as I thought I had to step up to Renntech bars to get hollow. One thing I've been considering is larger drop links what do you think of that or is there another component you would change?
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Old August 17th, 2010, 06:38 PM   #15
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with your current setup, I would leave it exactly as it is and just enjoy it.
Since the bars are not adjustable, I don't feel different links will be of any help. If you had adjustable bars then different links would be helpful. I used stock links on my car and had no problems and the car handled extremely well.
The factory started using hollow bars on the 944 Turbo Cup cars. I had an '87 Turbo with full Turbo Cup suspension which included some HUGE hollow front and rear sway bars.
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