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Old June 8th, 2008, 06:46 PM   #1
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 91
M030 Sway Bar Information Request

Now that I'm AutoX'ing the Boxster, it's time to flatten out my cornering. I have decided that as a 1st step, I would replace the stock sway bars on my 2001 non-S Boxster with a rear M030 non-S sway and the front with a M030 S version. I have been looking at the Bentley manual and the rear looks relative simple but the front looks more complicated.

For the rear, I'm assuming the stock drop links will work and have a torque value of 37 Ft-lb, and the sway bar brackets get new bushings and then tightened to 17 Ft-lb? Do these bushings need to be lubricated?
For the front, same torque value on the lower drop link. Looks like the bushings are located under a curved bracket with 4 bolts (2 for the sway bar bushings, 1 for the Diagonal Control arm, and one to the frame? Does anyone know the torque values for these bolts and will I need an alignment after undoing these? It also looks like the sway is also underneath 2 diagonal braces that need to be removed, so same questions, what are the torque values and will removing these effect my alignment (I would say not on the diagonals).

Thanks in advance for any help since I'm planning this project for the week of the 4th of July.
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Old June 8th, 2008, 07:38 PM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Auburn, CA
Posts: 1,282
I did a similar swap on my '99 Boxster
ROW M030 S front and rear sway bars....it is a very good modification.
you will definitely feel the difference at AX. Much better turn in.
It has been 6 years since I did mine, so I don't recall the actual install any longer but it does get more involved in the front. The rear can be done with the car on the ground...
GGR AX and TT instructor for 20+ yrs.
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Old June 8th, 2008, 10:27 PM   #3
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If I recall correctly... with the fronts, you can remove 2 of the 3 bolts on the 'banana' curved arms that secure the bar, the larger bolt up front can just be loosened to swing the banana arm out of the way. For the front diagonal brace, remove the forward bolts and loosen the rearward to allow the front portion to drop down enough and also swing out of the way. You'll need to remove the front plastic pan first I think.

For the rear, you'll need to at the least, loosen the nuts on the beefy diagonal braces and the trapazoidial 'bracket'. I think you'll need to remove the brackets rearward nuts to drop the bracet enough to wedge the bar out - you may need to pull down on the bracket to horse it out. I think you can get away with that - minimalist approach.

Don't believe you'll need an alignment if you don't jack the car after the rear diagonals are loosened or removed. I did mine while the rear was on some gorilla ramps or some such.

good luck,

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